Graffiti has become a stark symbol of the neglect facing Baile Herculane, one of Europe’s oldest spa towns, where dilapidated walls of the main thermal baths tell a story of years without care. Located in the picturesque mountains of southwestern Romania, this town historically attracted emperors seeking the therapeutic benefits of its healing waters. In a concerted effort to revive the resort’s former glory, a dedicated group of young architects has taken on the mantle of restoration.
Among them is 31-year-old architect Oana Chirila, whose epiphany upon first visiting Baile Herculane eight years ago sparked a passion for preserving its beauty. “Someone once said that if you drink water from the spring from Herculane, you never leave,” Chirila recounted, reflecting on the allure of the town and the shocking condition of its historic thermal baths. These iconic structures, including the Neptune Imperial Baths built in 1886, once catered to high-profile guests such as Austria’s Emperor Franz Joseph and Empress Elisabeth, known as Sisi. Franz Joseph extolled Baile Herculane as Europe’s “most beautiful spa resort.”
Today, however, these baths remain closed, marred by graffiti and facing the hazards of advancing decay, with rainwater penetrating through their ceilings. Nonetheless, the town continues to attract tourists who pause to admire the ornate but crumbling facades, or peer into the dilapidated interiors through shattered windows.
Chirila’s team is currently limited to addressing the baths’ exterior facades but is optimistic about their efforts. A pivotal challenge remains unresolved legal conflicts between local authorities and private owners, which stymie the restoration process and inhibit access to public or European funding. “There’s always this fear that it might collapse,” Chirila noted regarding the precarious conditions of many historic sites in Romania, with approximately 800 closed or in danger of complete disrepair.
Despite ongoing challenges, the town continues to evolve, providing visitors with refurbished sulphur water basins along the riverbanks—smaller ‘bathtubs’ where guests can enjoy therapeutic soaks. Local officials report that tourism has been steadily increasing over recent years, with approximately 160,000 visitors recorded in 2024, a significant rise from 90,000 in 2020. In addition to spa treatments, outdoor activities like hiking and climbing are also drawing tourists to the area.
Dr. Aura Zidarita, a resident of Baile Herculane, expressed optimism about the town’s potential to reclaim its historic status as a “pearl of Europe.” As the community rallies behind its cultural treasures, Baile Herculane stands poised for a renaissance, blending its rich heritage with the vibrancy of contemporary tourism.
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