In the border town of Mae Sot, Thailand, a vibrant punk scene is emerging alongside a backdrop of conflict and resilience. Tattoo artist Ng La embodies the spirit of this movement, using art as a form of expression and defiance against the oppressive military regime that forced many, including him, to seek refuge outside their homeland. His story, along with the narratives of others who have fled Myanmar, highlights the struggles and dreams of exiles who are not only surviving but also fighting to reclaim their identity and freedom in a foreign land.
Mae Sot, Thailand – On the outskirts of this small town bordering Myanmar, a tattoo artist’s gun buzzes alongside a blaring punk music soundtrack. “Punk means freedom,” states Ng La, whose face and body are heavily adorned with tattoos, reflecting the spirit of rebellion and self-expression. He passionately asserts that punk culture is more than just a musical genre or a fashion statement; it represents a way of life that provides solace and hope for those who have fled oppressive regimes.
Ng La fled Yangon, Myanmar’s largest city, to escape the impending hold of military rule and now lives precariously as an undocumented Myanmar national in Thailand. Despite the instability of his current reality, he believes that living in exile is preferable to the dire consequences that await him should he be captured by the military regime he bravely resisted. “Our biggest fear is not death, but rather being caught by the regime,” he emphasizes.
Ng La’s harrowing journey into exile reflects the experiences of many young people from Myanmar facing similar circumstances. His activism ignited in February 2021, following the military’s overthrow of the democratically elected government of Aung San Suu Kyi, which extinguished hopes for a brighter future. The coup not only reversed years of progress but also ignited a violent civil conflict, causing untold suffering and displacing millions.
During the initial crackdown by the military junta, Ng La joined demonstrations, displaying defiance on the streets with friends. However, fearing arrest, he ultimately fled to the jungle along Myanmar’s border to join the People’s Defence Force (PDF), an armed resistance group formed in response to the military takeover. After facing intense clashes in early 2022, he was compelled to cross into Thailand, where he initially struggled to survive without documentation.
Living as an undocumented migrant in Thailand presents various challenges, including the constant threat of deportation and difficulty accessing healthcare and education. Nevertheless, Ng La has found a means of support through his punk-themed bar and tattoo parlour, aided by his partner.
The ongoing strife in Myanmar, now approaching its fifth year, has also birthed stories of survival and resilience among other exiles. Countless individuals have been forced to flee, and many are left with few options for a secure future. The United Nations estimates that around 3.5 million people have been displaced as a result of the conflict, many seeking refuge in Thailand, India, and Bangladesh.
The Thai government has recognized the plight of some refugees from Myanmar and recently granted working rights to registered refugees. However, undocumented migrants like Ng La remain vulnerable and face the ongoing threat of harassment and arrest. Many choose to remain in hiding, fearful of being deported back to Myanmar, where they could be subject to conscription or imprisonment.
Among those who fled is Snow, a 33-year-old former English teacher, who also sought refuge after the coup. She embodies the disillusionment felt by many who once cherished the hope of a democratic Myanmar. “The coup destroyed all our hopes and dreams,” she reflects. Snow actively engaged in resistance efforts and provided assistance to wounded fighters, but eventually succumbed to disappointment regarding the alliances within the resistance.
As an election orchestrated by the military looms, many in Mae Sot view it with skepticism. The military’s promised vote is widely perceived as an illegitimate facade designed to validate its power. Ng La dismisses it as merely “a comedy show,” while Snow fears its implications for those still struggling for basic rights and freedoms in Myanmar.
Amid uncertainty, the desire to return home remains strong among exiles. Many are pursuing asylum in third countries, while others cherish hopes of one day returning to rebuild their nation. “We will fight until we can go home and rebuild it better and brighter,” Snow asserts, encapsulating the indomitable spirit of resilience that continues to define their struggle.
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