In the coastal suburb of La Goulette, Tunisia, cultural and religious diversity comes to life during the annual procession of Our Lady of Trapani. The event, steeped in history, conveys a poignant narrative of unity, weaving together the stories of immigrants from various backgrounds, including Tunisians, Europeans, and sub-Saharan Africans. This celebration not only honors a shared heritage but also stands as a powerful symbol of the enduring bonds across communities, echoing the spirit of inclusivity and acceptance that characterizes modern Tunisia.
Tunis, Tunisia – As night descended over the vibrant coastal suburb of Halq al-Wadi, better known as La Goulette, the air buzzed with excitement as a statue of the Virgin Mary was paraded from the local church, Saint-Augustin and Saint Fidele, into a bustling square filled with onlookers. Enthusiastic cheers, ululations, and the energetic waving of the Tunisian flag greeted the procession, as hundreds of participants, including Tunisians, Europeans, and sub-Saharan Africans, gathered together for the annual celebration of Our Lady of Trapani.
Among the attendees was Isaac Lusafu, who traveled from the Democratic Republic of the Congo. He expressed the unifying power of the event, stating that the Holy Virgin brought people together in celebration. As the statue moved gracefully through the packed square, participants prayed and sang hymns, all under the watchful gaze of a mural depicting Claudia Cardinale, the iconic Italian actress born in La Goulette, which serves as a nostalgic reminder of the neighborhood’s multicultural past.
The Catholic feast of Our Lady of Trapani was originally introduced to La Goulette in the late 1800s by Sicilian immigrants. The port town soon became a refuge for poor southern European fishermen seeking better opportunities. Although the immigrant fishermen and their families largely returned to Europe in the late 20th century, the statue of the Virgin Mary remained a centerpiece of the community’s cultural fabric.
Hatem Bourial, a Tunisian journalist, noted that during the procession’s golden age in the early 20th century, the statue was jointly carried by local Tunisians of all faiths, including Muslims and Jews, reflecting a spirit of solidarity among diverse communities. At the sea, participants would beseech the Virgin Mary to bless their fishing endeavors, leading to communal exclamations of “Long live the Virgin of Trapani!” accompanied by traditional celebrations.
Today’s observance aligns with significant milestones, such as August 15, which celebrates Mary’s ascension into heaven, and coincides with Italy’s Ferragosto holiday, marking the peak of summer festivities. Silvia Finzi, an Italian professor, recalled that upon bringing the statue to the sea, many locals believed it symbolized the end of the sweltering summer heat.
The composition of La Goulette transformed dramatically in the wake of the 1956 independence movement, which saw a mass exodus of European residents. By 1964, a Vatican agreement led to the transfer of the majority of churches to the Tunisian government, effectively halting historical public celebrations, including the procession.
After decades of inactivity, the Catholic Church reignited the procession in 2017, initially within church confines, and this year expanded into the square of La Goulette. Many young Tunisian Muslims participated, expressing nostalgia for a historically rich, multi-religious community. The Virgin Mary holds a revered position in Islam, with a dedicated chapter in the Quran, encouraging connections amidst cultural and theological differences.
Rania, a young attendee, shared her enthusiasm for the event and its historical significance to Tunisia’s identity. The 1996 film “Un ete a La Goulette,” capturing the lives of three girls from different backgrounds, encapsulates the spirit of coexistence that characterized the region before geopolitical upheavals altered its demographic landscape.
As Tunisia adapts to its newer wave of migrant communities from sub-Saharan Africa, the cultural landscape continues to evolve. Many of today’s migrants are Christian, reflecting an increase in church attendance and participation in events like the procession. A mural created in 2017 accentuates this diversity, displaying the Virgin Mary sheltering a variety of community members under her mantle, symbolizing solidarity among Tunisians, Sicilians, and migrants.
Archbishop of Tunis Nicolas Lhernould echoes this sentiment, underscoring the multifaceted nature of the current celebration, which emphasizes that, like the Virgin Mary, today’s community members are all “migrants,” united by shared experiences transcending geographical boundaries.
La Goulette, once known for its Italian heritage, now stands as a mosaic of cultures, where the remnants of its past continue to influence the present. Rita Strazzera, a descendant of Sicilian parents, reflects on the memory of a once-thriving community, now reduced but not forgotten, as individuals of various backgrounds unite in commemorating their shared history on special occasions. The legacy of “Little Sicily” remains alive in the hearts of Tunisians, reinforcing the idea that communal bonds can transcend familial ties and celebrate the tapestry of cultural diversity that defines Tunisia today.
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